Brief History

Around 300 years ago with the advent of the cast iron fireplace, coal became the most popular form of heating. Chimneys were built with small flues for small fireplaces to serve individual rooms. This practice continued until the 1960's. Since then chimneys have been designed and used alongside many types of appliances including boilers and decorative fires.

Environmental issues and developments in stove design and efficiencies have recently pushed wood forward as a real carbon-neutral alternative to coal. We must remember that our traditional chimneys were not necessarily designed for wood burning stoves and are often of an age whereby they are not suitable for guaranteed safe use with any type of fuel. Chimneys built after 1965 should have adequate liners, depending on the preferred fuel of the property.

Many builders over the past 40 years have not fully understood the importance of building sound chimneys to suit all appliances; it cannot be assumed that any chimney is suitable for wood burning. Building regulations state that the correct flue lining must be used for the intended appliance and it must be fitted and commissioned by a competent HETAS engineer or building control approval must be obtained. All installations must be certified and registered with your local council.

There are few others in the UK with our experience, knowledge and passion for chimneys. We have been unrivalled in all aspects of the domestic chimney market for over a decade.

Our chimney services include:

 

Why Do I Need to Reline My Chimney?

Below is a picture taken looking down inside a 1920's chimney. The original lime mortar liner that was smeared over the internal bricks has long gone leaving an uneven passage of bare bricks for the smoke, in most cases only the internal plaster on the chimney breast holds the dangerous fumes in. When using a wood burning stove the flue temperature is much lower than with open fires. The control of the stove allows you to stop the smoke inside the flue. Cooling smoke turns to creosote which can seep into the very structure of the chimney, making it impossible to clean properly, increasing the chance of a chimney fire. With all types of fuel, carbon monoxide is released when burnt.

Fitting an appliance of any fuel type to this age of chimney without relining is common practice among our competitors, usually because of the lack of skills needed. The soft clay bricks used in construction and the age of many of our local houses requires a certain standard of installation. Always remember, deciding not to reline is putting yourself at risk of fume inhalation or a house fire.

Relining a chimney enhances the efficiency of your chosen fire, gives you piece of mind and allows us to sleep at night.

 

What Type of Liner Do I Need?

There are many types of liner, each designed, sized and graded for different requirements. To determine the exact flue needed for your chosen appliance, always check the manufacturers' recommendations. Most old brick chimneys were built for small open fires and the internal flue size was usually 225mm x 225mm (one brick) square. The largest stainless steel flexible liner we can fit into a typical chimney has a 175mm internal diameter. Larger concrete/pumice flues can be added using our method illustrated below.

This work may appear drastic but the end result gives the ultimate, long lasting solution.

 

Class 2 Chimneys

For certain gas and oil appliances (stoves, boilers etc.) a stainless steel flexible single skin liner with a minimum internal diameter of 125mm is required.

 

Class 1 Chimneys

For larger 'open' gas fires, a Class 1 stainless steel twin wall flexible liner with a minimum diameter of 175mm is required.

Wood burning/multifuel stoves require a class 1 stainless steel twin wall flexible liner with a minimum flue diameter of 150mm (depending on stove size). For wood burning a 316 grade stainless steel is adequate. If coal is the intended fuel,904 grade stainless steel is recommended.

Open wood burning/coal fires require a Class 1 liner with a minimum diameter of 200mm. Open fires with larger fireplace openings (usually freestanding grates) will need larger flue sizes calculated alongside the height of the chimney.

 

Chimney Sweeping

Chimneys should be swept at least once a year. Always use an experienced, qualified sweep who will leave a certificate. Every installation must allow easy cleaning access to all parts of the flue.

Blocked chimneys are extremely dangerous!

 

New Build/Re-build

It is important to understand the correct chimney flue liner for its intended use (a 'chimney' is the brick structure that surrounds the flue liner). A standard 200mm clay/pumice or concrete flue liner is preferred and will be able to cope alongside any intended fuel and fireplace type. Only larger open fires need larger flues to ensure there is no fume spillage into the room. There is a science to how a chimney works, always ensure any builder or heating engineer you employ fully understands this as there are many myths regarding construction. One myth is that a chimney should have bends in it. In reality the perfect chimney will be as straight as the property layout will allow. Any bend will act as resistance to a good flow of gasses. If a chimney is of the correct height, the correct diameter, has a liner that is insulated and has adequate ventilation, then it is guaranteed to work.

We have the capabilities of adding or reinstating safe working chimneys in any situation that blend with the specific character of your house.

We can cater to all your requirements from complete supply and fit, working alongside builders, or training on site. Chimneys built incorrectly are a thorn in our side, solving problems caused at design and build stage can cost a lot and could be remedied early on saving unnecessary cost.

 

Inglenook Chimneys

Inglenook chimneys, usually found in properties over 300 years old, were designed to cope with masses of heat and smoke produced by large open fires used for heating, cooking and in some cases for the occupiers' trade (baker, blacksmith etc.). The oversized flues do cause problems with modern living as, even when not in use, the chimney rapidly pulls air from your house. This may be fine in summer, but in winter an inglenook can remove all of the heat produced by central heating in a room every 10 minutes. The perfect answer is to add a smaller, more controllable fire that needs a greatly reduced flue size. We find that stainless steel flexible or rigid flue systems are best to use in inglenooks, as the method of installation allows the least disturbance to the ancient structure.

The main aim of insulating a flue is to ensure the unburned gasses (smoke) from an appliance reach outside without cooling and solidifying on the way, creating a sticky tar build up. With inglenook chimneys it is usually not practical to back-fill around the new flue using vermiculite, therefore an insulating wrap is used
(see pictures below). In properties with thatched roofs, it is necessary to use a rigid stainless steel chimney system that is supplied ready insulated. This will guarantee heat cannot be transferred through touching brickwork, which can and does ignite the thatch.